Just thought I'd like to tell you.....

[pipestone1991]

I have two bags, a Lands End summer and a Swissgear winter bag. The Swissgear is a great buy, it costs $40, rated at 20 degrees, and it also can be used during summer (feels good any time of year)....Also the Swissgear hiking poles are very nice too. I was about to put down $80 for a pair of poles when I found these. $20 for a pair, beautiful red, it has shock absorbers and is adjustable.Another thing the compass in the handle works!!!!!!!(a big suprise).......Swissgear stuff ios cheap, nice, and made by the company that makes Swiss Army Knifes(Wegener, I think)....also new scouts reading this, BUY A SWISS ARMY KNIFE, they last forever. I've had a lot of knives and have had 3 Swisses (the basic [lost it],tinkerer[bought it off a kid at camp last year for 10 cents], and the new addition, some high-end Swiss that I forget the name)

[616kayak]

Also the Swissgear hiking poles are very nice too

treking poles are some of my most needed gear. Mine have lasted 3 years of hard heavy fast hiking.

Ive never been a big fan of the swiss army knife. I haven't realy used any new ones tho.

[pipestone1991]

Also the Swissgear hiking poles are very nice too

Ive never been a big fan of the swiss army knife. I haven't realy used any new ones tho.

I'm kinda saying to newer scouts to not buy one of those "modern " knives that look sofisticated and break in a year. *cough* el cheapo *cough* I myself though have had great exp. with Swiss Army knives.

[Ridge Runner]

I like to repurpose knives beginning by scouring Goodwills, yardsells, and flea markets. I never buy the modern stuff, the high chrome steel makes the blade too stiff, difficult to sharpen, and un-useable for skinning game, peeling potatos, or whittling out a toothpick. Often, they are just plain ugly.

The one I just finished turning into a small sheath knife suitable for a patch knife was a table knife about 10 inches in length, manufactured circa 1885/96. High carbon steel, flexable blade, full tang with a walnut and pewter handle.

As an antique it's max value was only 7 or 8 bucks, but I got it for 3. Reduced the length of the blade to 4 1/2 inches fashioning the blade with an 18th century French ogee curve for the taper and point as seen in their early fur trade knives. The patina, and color of both wood and steel made it look like a tool that had seen a considerable amount of use by a long hunter.

This summer, it'll be finished off with a beaded buckskin for the sheath, then selling it at the next re enactment for around $75 to $90....

[pipestone1991]

I like to repurpose knives beginning by scouring Goodwills, yardsells, and flea markets. I never buy the modern stuff, the high chrome steel makes the blade too stiff, difficult to sharpen, and un-useable for skinning game, peeling potatos, or whittling out a toothpick. Often, they are just plain ugly.

The one I just finished turning into a small sheath knife suitable for a patch knife was a table knife about 10 inches in length, manufactured circa 1885/96. High carbon steel, flexable blade, full tang with a walnut and pewter handle.

As an antique it's max value was only 7 or 8 bucks, but I got it for 3. Reduced the length of the blade to 4 1/2 inches fashioning the blade with an 18th century French ogee curve for the taper and point as seen in their early fur trade knives. The patina, and color of both wood and steel made it look like a tool that had seen a considerable amount of use by a long hunter.

This summer, it'll be finished off with a beaded buckskin for the sheath, then selling it at the next re enactment for around $75 to $90....

Nice..........well, I've since completetly destroyed the hiking poles (put only about 100 miles on them, but for $40, oh well

[Ridge Runner]

For myself, I just don't care for treking poles. They're about a useful as hen's teeth on some trails. Backpacking out of Mojave and headed for Tuolumne Meadows via the John Muir, you're looking at 5 major mountain passes to cross. Even during summer, snow and ice can be a problem at the higher elevations.

Here, the better choice is an ice ax should one need to make an arrest, chop steps, rest step with, or anchor off of.

Besides weights, the other concern for backpackers is bulk. Sleeping bags if not carefully chosen can eat up a lot of space in a backpack very quickly. It's one of the reasons that many inexperience long distance backpackers tend to pick larger capacity packs, hence adding more weight.

For sleeping bags, I've got several. Some nearing 20 plus years in age. However, my choice of an ultralight summer bag is the Haglofs LIM. Weight is aroud 14 ounces, packs to the size of a half loaf of bread. Good, down to the high 50's.

However, by seeing the bag as part of a system supported with one's base layer, I can use it down into the mid 40's to high 30's with a tent. Good enough for early fall, and late spring use making it a "3 season" bag.

For my base layer, wool socks, Cabela's light weight tech silk longjohns, and a wool tuque for the head. And if needed, the primaloft sweater....

Additionally, the LIM can be used as part of a layering system for other bags should the need arise.

On the John Muir in late spring to mid summer, I normally carry two bags, the Haglofs, and aFeathered Friend Winter Wren to handle a variaty of constantly changing weather conditions, and to keep the pack light.

[pipestone1991]

For myself, I just don't care for treking poles. They're about a useful as hen's teeth on some trails. Backpacking out of Mojave and headed for Tuolumne Meadows via the John Muir, you're looking at 5 major mountain passes to cross. Even during summer, snow and ice can be a problem at the higher elevations.

Anymore, I will not use trekking poles.